Archive for the ‘Backyard’ Category

Why You Should Aerate and Overseed this Spring

Thursday, March 22nd, 2018

Many lawn care professionals and homeowners think that fall is the time to aerate and overseed. But there are good reasons for aerating in the spring instead – including if you didn’t do it in the fall. If you’re facing damaged spots, bare patches, or thinning due to foot traffic, consider adding aeration to your spring to-do list.

Spring Aeration

Thorough aeration opens up the roots, allowing them to take in more oxygen, nutrients and water. Aerating in the spring takes advantage of the grass’s natural growth cycle, delivering more nutrients and oxygen when plants may need it most. Aeration is best timed for just before or during high growth, but not before or during high stress periods, like extreme heat or drought. This makes spring, with cool temps and plentiful rain, an ideal time for aerating cool season grasses. (Late spring and early summer is an ideal time for aerating warm season grasses.)

Don’t start out your spring lawn care with aeration, though. Mow two or three times to be sure the grass is growing fast enough to take advantage of increased air exchange in the root zone. This will also give you a better idea of how healthy your lawn is and whether you should overseed after aerating.

One caveat to spring aeration: Grass is not the only plant taking advantage of spring growth cycles. Weeds are, too, and aerating can bring buried seeds to the surface of your lawn, where they germinate and increase weed competition. Fertilizing and using a pre-emergent weed killer can reduce the potential for weeds after aeration. If you’ll be overseeding thin and bare areas, skip the weed killer, as this will prevent your grass seeds from germinating.

Spring Overseeding

Overseeding after aeration will provide fresh growth, and give it a fuller, thicker appearance. Overseed when there’s abundant rain and sunshine; you’ll also want to be past the last frost date, as frost will kill tender young roots. Overseeding can set your lawn up for success later in the season, as a thick, healthy lawn will be better able to withstand summer stresses.

How Often Should I Aerate My Lawn?

Experts recommend aerating and overseeding at least once per year. For lawns with heavily compacted soil or a high clay content, aerating twice a year may be best.

Equipment

If you’re a lawn care professional, you may need to add equipment to your fleet in order to accomplish these tasks. Exmark aerators come in a variety of styles and sizes (from the 21” walk behind to the 24” and 30” stand-on models), offering high maneuverability and efficiency. For overseeding, we offer both a ride-on spreader-sprayer with lean-to-steer technology, and a commercial slicer seeder that verticuts, dethatches and seeds in one pass. Like all Exmark equipment, our turf management products are designed to be intuitive, long-lasting, and deliver unmatched efficiency.

How to Prevent Spring Weeds from Taking Root in Your Lawn

Thursday, January 25th, 2018

As the snow melts and temperatures warm, it’s not just your grass that springs back to life. Weeds and especially dandelions are just waiting to take root in your lawn, plantings and other areas. While weed killer has a definite role, it shouldn’t be your main line of defense. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so here are other ways to prevent weeds from taking over your lawn.

Weeds, especially dandelions, are opportunists, so minimize the opportunity. As soon as you can this spring, you’ll want to aerate, dethatch and overseed your lawn, paying particular attention to any bare spots. This will provide more oxygen to your lawn’s roots, and make it easier for nutrients to reach the soil for absorption. The result will be a healthier, fuller lawn that provides less opportunity for dandelions and other wind-dispersed weeds like milkweed, as well as perennial pests like broadleaf plantain.

If you live in an area where wind-dispersed weeds are a particular problem, be sure to mulch flower beds and bare areas around trees or other plantings early in the spring. A good mulch layer will make it easier to remove any dandelions or other undesirable plants before they turn to seed and spread across your lawn.

Once new grass growth is well established, fertilize your lawn. Besides keeping your grass healthy, this will help prevent weeds that are attracted to low nitrogen or poor soils, like white clover or creeping Charlie. As trees leaf out and create thin or bare patches due to shade, seed those areas with a shade tolerant seed to help prevent violets and other shade-loving weeds.

Your watering and mowing habits can also prevent weed growth. Under watering your lawn creates ideal conditions for weeds like purslane, especially in newly seeded areas, while broadleaf plantain loves an overwatered lawn. Similarly, scalping your lawn by cutting too short creates conditions where crabgrass can take over, so be sure your mower settings are right for your type of grass and region.

Once weeds start to appear, you’ll need to treat them. Some weeds, like chickweed or broadleaf plantain, can be pulled by hand if there are just a few plants. You may need to dig out small patches of clover or creeping Charlie and then seed the area immediately. For dandelions, cut the flowers off to prevent them from going to seed. You should also dig them out, being sure to get at least 2-inches of the tap-root.

Should your lawn go from a few weeds that can be managed by hand to a full-scale invasion, get out the post-emergent herbicide and apply directly to the plants. If the weeds are taking over tender new grass that is trying to establish itself, it may be best to dip a paintbrush in the herbicide and paint the leaves of the weeds, rather than spraying.

One final note: If your lawn is really weedy, it may be a good idea to clean off the mower when you’re done, to prevent seeds from being deposited back into your lawn the next time. That’s because seeds can cling to the mower; starting up and mowing the next time can then disperse them into your lawn again, canceling out any efforts you made to clean up the weeds between mowing. To avoid transporting and dispersing seeds to another lawn, it’s a good idea to clean the mower before you move on to the next job site.

Plan Now to Get the Lawn and Landscape You Want Next Spring

Thursday, January 4th, 2018

It’s December. Your lawn may be covered with snow, but now is the time to start planning. Whether you have bare patches you need to fill in or you’re planning a new landscape design, starting now will ensure you get the lawn you want next year.

Make note of the problems you need to fix. Bare patches, mole hills, crab grass: Whatever ails your lawn, research both the issue you have and the best time to address it. Also decide whether you’re the right person to take care of it – not everyone wants to trap moles, after all—or whether you’d be better off hiring a contractor. You may have multiple issues to address, in which case, schedule them out, even if it’s as informal as aerate and fertilize in the spring, then over-seed.

Once you have the basic projects scoped out, an idea of when to do them, as well as their costs if you’re  hiring someone to do them, start thinking about the other projects. Do you want to add outdoor features, like a patio, fire pit or water feature? Take the time now to look at designs and figure out exactly what you want. That way, you’ll be ready to go when the weather warms up and work can begin, and you’ll be able to get more use out of your yard than if you’d waited until July to decide what you wanted. You may also be happier with the results, if you take the time to research options and pick the design and materials that you like best.

January and February are also a great time to gather plant catalogs and think about plantings that will make your lush green lawn stand out. Spend some time with nursery and plant catalogs, or go online to nursery websites. Think not just about which plants will enhance your house and lawn, but what’s the best way to arrange them and how much effort you want to put into maintenance. If you don’t want to do the labor yourself, it’s best to start looking for a landscape designer well before the temperature warms up. Even if you’re going with a designer and contracted labor, you should have an idea of how you want your yard to look. A good landscaper will take your ideas and work with them so that your plantings grow in and look great in five years, not just the year they were planted.

Don’t forget to budget carefully, especially if you have ambitious plans. You may want to prioritize which features you have to have, and which would be nice but are optional. Or you can make it a several season process, installing the most important features first, and saving the optional ones for next year.

With planning and care, your yard can be the envy of the neighborhood, so use the cold weather months to your advantage. Don’t know where to start? Check out these lawn and garden DIY videos for project ideas and lawn care tips.

Why You Should Rake and Bag or Mulch Your Leaves in the Fall

Wednesday, November 29th, 2017

As leaves fall, you may be tempted to just leave them, especially if your property has a lot of trees. For a variety of reasons, this is a bad idea. While it may look okay at first, as rain and snow begin to break down the leaves, they will blacken and become a slick mess. The longer you leave them, the wetter and harder to clean up they’ll become.  The extra moisture on your lawn can also lead to diseases like snow mold, which will result in circular brown patches on your lawn next spring.

Why You Should Mulch Your Leaves

Leaves are full of nutrients. Your lawn needs nutrients. Mulching your leaves delivers those nutrients to your lawn, and involves less work than taking the time to rake and bag leaves. And, you don’t have to pay for nitrogen-based fertilizers. So, it’s better for your lawn, less work, and less expensive.

If you’re a gardener, you may want to consider composting your leaves, and use the compost on flower or vegetable gardens. Simply place the leaves into a large bin, add other compostable material like vegetable waste, plant and garden trimmings, and rake or stir once or twice month to speed up decomposition.

Aren’t Leaves – Especially Oak Leaves—Bad for My Lawn?

No. This is an old wives’ tale that may have come about because wet leaves left on lawns over winter can cause damage or disease. All leaves, even oak leaves, contain nutrients that are beneficial to your lawn. Finely mulched leaves will deliver those nutrients to you lawn.

When You Should Rake and Remove Leaves

If you regularly fertilize your lawn, mulching may be too much of a good thing. In this case, you may want to rake and bag leaves. Some communities will collect leaves for mulching and make the mulch available to residents for use in their gardens.

How Often Do I Need to Remove Leaves?

You’ll need to remove leaves throughout the fall. Depending on where you live, this may last four to six weeks. Doing it in stages, rather than waiting until all the leaves are down, may end up being less work in the long run. If you’re mulching the leaves, your mower may be unable to handle a thick carpet of leaves as efficiently, leading to more passes and larger pieces of mulch.

Fall Mower Maintenance and Winterizing

Wednesday, October 25th, 2017

As mowing season winds down and you think about winter storage, take the time to do some basic fall maintenance. Whether you own one mower or an entire fleet, you’ll want to protect your machinery – and your investment. Proper maintenance will help protect your mower during the cold off-season, and make getting started next spring easier.

First, clean your mower fully. Moisture in damp grass clippings, leaf mulch or mud can cause rust or a freeze and thaw cycle, potentially weakening metal. Even though clumps of material will dry eventually, the caked on grass or mud will be much harder to clean off months from now. Spray the deck, remove and clean the blades, and if necessary, scrape out grass clumps and organic matter that won’t come out with water. Wipe the mower down to be sure it dries.

Once your mower is free of grass, soil and other dirt, change the oil, oil filters, spark plugs and air filters. Lubricate friction points with a grease gun. Because gasoline and diesel can degrade, empty the fuel from small walk behinds. For larger mowers, top-off the tank and add a fuel stabilizer designed for winter storage. A full tank will help prevent condensation, and the fuel stabilizer will prevent fuel spoilage. Run the mower for a few minutes to distribute the fuel stabilizer.

Some people start up their mowers periodically during the winter. If you don’t plan on doing this, it’s best to remove and store the battery in a cool, dry place. Just be sure to recharge it fully before starting the mower in the spring.

Check the tires. Inflate them to their proper pressure to prevent damage to the tires as they lose pressure over the winter. You should also protect pneumatic tires from cold concrete by parking the mower on cardboard or other insulating material.

How to Store You Mower for the Winter

Store your mower in a garage or shed, as this will protect it from rain, snow and freeze/thaw cycles. Do not store your mower near fertilizers and other corrosive materials, as these can eat away at metal when airborne. Keep it away from items that can cause sparks. And even indoors, protecting it with a cover or tarp is a good idea, as that will help keep dirt and dust out of important components.

If you must store your mower outdoors, be sure to cover it completely. If you use a tarp, rather than an equipment cover, tuck loose edges under the machine, and ensure that the tarp will not blow away. Place it on a level surface, preferably one that is paved. Do not store your mower in a spot that is likely to become muddy, as your machine may become stuck as the mud dries or freezes.

Get more mower service tips, or find the mower maintenance schedule for your Exmark.

Done in a Weekend: Outdoor Eyesore Makeovers

Friday, June 9th, 2017

By Doug Scott, Landscape Designer
Redeem Your Ground, Atlanta, GA

Like the spaces inside your home, you want your outdoor spaces to not only be attractive, but also reflective of you, and how you want to live outside. Unfortunately, almost every yard comes with views and other eyesores that you’d rather not look at.

But, have no fear. There are ways to address these not-so-attractive yard realities so that you, your friends, and family can fully enjoy your time outside.

Below are the three outdoor eyesores that clients most commonly ask me to address:

  1. Hiding those utilitarian necessities—like trashcans, HVAC units, utility boxes, water meters and pool pumps.
  2. Blocking the unsightly or unwanted views beyond their yards—like their neighbor’s driveway, garage or backyard.
  3. Bringing back to life those wimpy patches of grass that just won’t seem to grow.

If you’re dealing with any of these eyesores (you’re not alone), read on for practical ways to remedy them.

Utilitarian Necessities

Everybody has them—those unsightly metal boxes attached to our houses or near the street that keep the lights on, our homes at the perfect temperature and communications to the outside world open. Or, a couple of garbage cans conveniently placed just outside our garage. But nobody wants to see them. So, what do you do?

As with most things in your yard, you can approach it in one of two ways (or both): screen them with plant material or something man-made.

Let’s start with plant material. When choosing plant material, you want to make sure to pick the right plant for the right place. And what I mean by that is to choose plants that will thrive in the growing conditions where you’ll be planting them and still fit the space when they mature. In other words, you don’t want to plant something that you’ll have to constantly prune or won’t look healthy over time. Otherwise you’ll just be creating another problem that will have to be dealt with in the future.

Additionally, because your objective is to hide something, you want to make sure to pick plants that don’t lose their leaves (i.e., evergreen shrubs vs. deciduous perennials). There are a number of varieties of hollies, laurels, and distylium species that will fit the bill. Again, read the labels to make sure they’ll grow to the height you’re looking for and that the growing conditions are right for them to thrive (e.g., sun exposure).

Lastly, if you’re able (and as long as you maintain the necessary access), try to incorporate your plant material with the other planting beds in that space. This will help make things visually flow better, which will keep someone from seeing what you don’t want seen.

Unsightly AC Unit

Covered Eyesore

Unsightly Pool Pump

Covered Eyesore

[For more planting tips, check out the Layer Up video I did with Exmark in their ‘Done-In-A-Weekend’ video series.]

Next, are man-made solutions. The obvious choice in this situation is to add lattice or fencing in front of these eyesores. If you take this approach, look around to see what else is going on in your yard. For example:

  • If you already have fencing, use the same or complementary material for your screen.
  • If your house has horizontal siding, install horizontal lattice.
  • Stain or paint it a color that already exists on your home or other outdoor structures.

Doing these things will make your attempts to hide something less obvious, allowing it to flow nicely with the rest of your landscape.

Additionally, you could use an existing man-made structure—like a firewood box or garden bench—to hide your utilitarian necessities.

Unsightly Compost Bin

Covered Eyesore

Note: Adding a man-made structure to hide a utility box only works if it is up against, or near, your house. In other words, if you’re hiding utility boxes near the street, then using plant material as a screen is probably your best bet.

Finally, you could utilize both lattice or fencing and plant material. If you don’t have much space to work with, plant a vine to grow on the fence or lattice rather than using evergreen shrubs that will take up a lot of room. Not only will this achieve your primary objective, but it’s a nice way to soften the hard lines of the man-made structure.

While the choice is yours, you’ll have more control by using something man-made, although plant material is often less obvious. Plants also require a bit more maintenance (at least to get established) and can always die, leaving you right back where you started. Regardless, whatever you do, the end result will certainly be more visually appealing than what you’re looking at now!

Unsightly Views

If you live in a neighborhood or more urban area, there’s a good chance that you’re looking right into your neighbor’s backyard or some other not-so-desirable view. But this isn’t just a problem for us urbanites. No matter where you live, there’s often something you want to block, or distract, your view from beyond your property.

And in this situation, blocking and/or distracting the views are the two solutions I’d recommend that you consider. Most of the time when I work with a client, they use the word “block,” but sometimes that isn’t the best option. Keep reading and you’ll see why.

Like I mentioned above when dealing with utilitarian necessities, you have two approaches to block views beyond your property: either with man-made structures or plant material. The obvious man-made solution is putting up a privacy fence.

Unfortunately, there are limits to privacy fence height, and they only block views when you’re near the fence itself. That’s why many people quickly think of a line of 30-foot tall evergreen trees . . . that’ll do the trick! The major downside to this approach is the fact that if trees like these are that tall, they’re also very wide at the base (8- to 15+ feet). This means that you’ll either have less room to enjoy your yard, or you’ll have to cut them down and start all over again once they mature and eat up everything in sight.

Neighbor’s Trash Cans / Toys

Covered Eyesore

That said, if you do choose to use tall evergreen trees (like cryptomeria, deodar cedar, or several varieties of magnolia), let me suggest that you don’t put 15 of them in a row along your property line. Not only is a 30-foot tall wall of green a bit claustrophobic, it also doesn’t look natural and will only end up drawing attention to something you don’t really want to look at. Instead, look at specific aspects of the views you want to block and place groupings of 3-5 trees in a staggered fashion to strategically fill the most unsightly ‘windows.’

If you don’t have the kind of space required to use these behemoths and you don’t need to go 30-feet high, consider the larger varieties of some of the evergreen shrubs like hollies and laurels, as well as tea olives and certain varieties of ligustrum that I mentioned previously. Your best bet is to seek advice from a local nursery, and be sure and read the labels before digging your first hole.

Another option to consider is using understory trees to distract the views you don’t want to see. When I say understory trees, I’m referring to dogwoods, redbuds, crepe myrtles, serviceberry trees, etc. A lot of times, the reason you’re focusing on what’s beyond your property is because there’s nothing else to see. So give yourself something attractive to look at by using any of these tree options.

I have to mention, though, the downside to using understory trees is that they are deciduous (a fancy word meaning that they lose their leaves), so a good part of the year the only thing distracting your views will be their limb structure. But that may be enough. Your call.

The flip side of the understory tree coin, however, is that their flowers, fruit, changing leaves, and interesting bark and trunk structure will help add seasonal interest to your yard throughout the year, not to mention attract wildlife. And that’s a good thing for everyone!

Wimpy Grass

The other eyesore that almost all of my clients ask me to address is those pesky patches of wimpy grass. I won’t get into the nitty gritty of what fungal issue might be ailing your grass, but often times ‘wimpy grass syndrome,’ as I like to call it, is caused by one of three things:

  1. It’s simply the wrong grass for the growing conditions it’s planted in.
  2. It lays within a high-traffic area.
  3. And related to #2, the strip of grass is too narrow.

So, before you pull your hair out or work yourself to death trying to keep your wimpy grass alive, it may simply be that it’s not the right grass for the sun exposure where it’s growing. So if your grass needs 6-8 hours of sun but only gets 2, it won’t thrive there. It’s also possible that your sun exposure isn’t the same throughout your entire yard, so you’ll have to make a call on where you want most of your lawn and then grow something else in those other areas.

[Note: Some grasses that do best in the sun are Zoysia, Bermuda, Centipede and St. Augustine. Shade- tolerant grasses include tall fescue, as well as certain varieties of Zoysia and St. Augustine.]

Secondly, if you’re trying to grow grass where there is a lot of traffic, you may be fighting a losing battle. Turf grasses like Zoysia and Bermuda will take more traffic than fescue. But even then, you may need to raise the white flag if you’ve aerated when you should and exhausted all other maintenance options.

Similarly, even if your wimpy grass patch doesn’t get a lot of traffic, a narrow strip of grass may still be petering out. That’s likely because it’s so narrow you can only mow it in one direction. And eventually, over time, your grass will give up, as it just can’t hold up under those harsh conditions.

So, what do you do if you have wimpy grass? Most of your options are actually quite simple:

  • If it’s not the right grass, plant the right grass.
  • For high-traffic areas where you have a turf grass (e.g., Zoysia or Bermuda), if it makes sense, consider cutting in stepping stones through the area to essentially tell those walking through the space where to walk and where not to walk. Unfortunately, bunchgrass like fescue wouldn’t thrive in this type of situation.
  • Let Mother Nature tell you where to grow grass and expand your planting beds so that the perimeter of your lawn lines only extend to where the grass will thrive. Then simply fill in the beds with plant material.

Wimpy Grass

Covered Eyesore

If none of these more obvious options work for you, you could plant a grass substitute, like dwarf Mondo. While it will give you the look of grass (though it’s not, so you won’t likely want to play football on it) it will take a good bit of time to fill in.

Whichever route you choose, I’m confident that one of the options above will help put your days of wimpy grass behind you.

Although these outdoor eyesores may be the bane of your existence today, with the right approach you can get them behind you and out of sight sooner than you think. Just make a decision and move in that direction. Hopefully these eyesore makeover tips I’ve provided will help you get on to the business of enjoying your time outside at home!

Noticing Crabgrass? Here’s What To Do About It

Monday, May 15th, 2017

Most people don’t notice crabgrass taking over their lawns until summer. This voracious, fast-spreading weed is at its most productive during the warm summer months, growing all throughout lawns and stealing nutrients from the grass that really needs it. By the time you notice it in abundance, chances are it has taken firm hold of your lawn and you’ll need to take an intensive approach to get rid of it.

That’s why you should start looking out for crabgrass earlier. Most of the time, you’ll see a few patches taking root as soon as the temperatures start picking up for the year. The seeds lie dormant all winter, but as soon as the ground temperature is warm enough to support them, they start awakening in earnest.

Keep your lawn looking its best with proper, planning and upkeep.

Preventing Crabgrass

If you get at crabgrass before it starts to germinate, you’ll break the cycle of growth. This means you’ll need to be vigilant as soon as the growing season begins in spring.

And the best way to be vigilant? To have a healthy lawn.

A yard that is vibrant, thriving, and well-cared for creates a difficult place for crabgrass to take hold in the first place. This includes regular (deep) watering, cutting no more than one-third of the grass leaf at a time, and regular aeration/dethatching and other turf care. A nicely tended lawn also makes it easier for you to notice trouble areas as they arise.

Controlling Crabgrass

 If you already have a crabgrass problem, it’s not too late. Depending on how far the season has progressed and how much of an infestation you have, you may want to consider the following options.

  • Pre-Emergent Herbicide: This herbicide is designed to kill crabgrass seedlings in their early stages of growth. Ideally, it should be applied as soon as the ground temperature reaches 60 degrees—which, for most regions, is fairly early in the spring (as soon as your local trees start budding). Because this herbicide can be rough on newly growing grass, it’s best not to apply this universally over a lawn that has been recently seeded.
  • Regular Herbicides: Crabgrass is pretty good at standing up to regular weed killers, including weed & feed fertilizers and anything designed to kill broadleaf weeds. And any other kind of weed killer that is strong enough to kill crabgrass is probably going to be good at killing your regular grass, too. That’s why many homeowners spot-kill crabgrass using a product that allows you to direct where you spray.
  • Crabgrass Killers: There are specialty herbicides designed to kill crabgrass. They should be used according to the exact directions on the label. In almost all cases, you want to spray this when temperatures are cooler (lower than 85 degrees) and at a time when you can stay away from mowing, watering, and walking on your property for a few days afterward. Early summer and early mornings are best.
  • Non-Chemical Options: If you’d rather avoid chemicals altogether, you can opt to pour boiling water directly on the crabgrass plants or pull them by hand (making sure you get the full root). This is time consuming—and labor intensive—and you’ll need to reseed the area afterward, but you’ll avoid using herbicides this way.

Prevention is the best cure, so come up with a plan of action to keep your lawn lush, green and healthy. By staying on top of lawn care tasks like seeding and aerating, it is possible to stop crabgrass from getting a foothold.

When to Start Mowing in the Spring

Monday, February 27th, 2017
When to start mowing

It’s best to step back and take a look at lawn conditions before you start mowing this spring.

You might be tempted to pull out the mower and start cutting down that new spring growth as soon as it appears, but it’s best to step back and take a look at lawn conditions before you begin. The burst of healthy grass activity in spring will help keep your lawn lush and vibrant for the rest of the year. By timing your mowing and seeding schedule to make the most of this growth, you’ll enjoy much better results overall.

Ask yourself the following questions to know if the timing is right.

How tall is the grass? Give your spring grass a chance to develop strong, healthy roots by waiting until it’s at least 2 inches tall before mowing. Even then, stick to the rule of not taking off more than a third of its length so that it doesn’t die before it’s had a chance to develop.

How recently did you fertilize? Spring is a great time to fertilize your lawn because of its high rate of new growth. Like a child going through a growth spurt, the grass consumes nutrients at a much faster rate than normal. Both early and late spring are ideal times to fertilize—but remember that you have to give the nutrients a chance to be absorbed before you mow, so time accordingly.

Are you overseeding this year? Overseeding is another common activity in spring, especially if you invested in a slicer seeder this year and want to see where your new equipment will take you. This is typically done before fertilizing, so you’ll need to set up a schedule of seeding, mowing, and fertilizing that won’t cause further damage. In most cases, you’ll have to plan on not mowing until later in spring (April-May).

Where do you live? Location will have an impact on your mowing schedule, especially if you live where late frosts are a possibility, or there’s an excess of rain.

Freezing conditions: The freezing/thawing cycle can be very rough on new growth, and can cause dehydration, which isn’t good for the grass. Cutting it down while it’s unstable can cause irreparable damage. If freezing is a possibility, you should plan on mowing the grass when it’s longer than usual. It’s better to risk longer grass and the need to mow more often than to cut it too short and have the frost kill the rest of the plant off.

Wet conditions: An unseasonably wet spring could cause a huge rush of damp growth that can be more difficult to mow. Therefore, pay close attention to the weather conditions. You may need to scale back on your mowing schedule until the grass dries out to prevent potential problems or damage to the turf.

How much time do you have? As soon as you perform that first mow, you should plan on mowing every 3-5 days to create a clean, manicured look. By waiting until you have the time and energy to devote to mowing, you’ll end up with a better looking lawn.

Getting Your Lawn Ready for Winter

Thursday, December 8th, 2016
A focus on fall maintenance helps you get a quick, trouble-free start next spring.

A focus on fall maintenance helps you get a quick, trouble-free start next spring.

Now that fall is coming to a close and winter weather is headed your way, it’s time to start thinking about lawn prep. In order to get the most out of thespring growing season, it’s important to take precautionary steps and make the most out of available mulching materials. Here’s how.

  1. Mow Often and Low: Most people slow down their mowing routines as fall hits, and that’s okay. However, you want to keep your grass no more than 1 to 1.5 inches high in order to determine how much composting and aerating you’ll need to do. Don’t shock the blades by chopping them all down at once. Instead, mow often enough and with gradually lowered blades to get the grass to the desired length without damage.
  2. Rake and/or Mulch the Leaves: Don’t let leaves take over your lawn and destroy what’s left of the growing season. Rake them, or mulch them in order to put the nutrients back into the ground. Mulching can also be beneficial when you want to protect your grass against rapidly decreasing temperatures.
  3. Aerate the Lawn: Aeration is almost always done in fall because it allows you to take advantage of looser, moister conditions to loosen the soil. For a healthy, lush lawns, professionals recommend annual aeration.
  4. Prep and Overseed: Now is the time to address bare patches in the lawn and overseed for next year’s growth. Ideally, this should be done six to eight weeks before the first hard freeze so new grass roots can get established.
  5. Remove Annuals: All those beautiful annual flowers you put in this year are ready to be removed. It can be difficult to say goodbye (especially if you put a lot of working into planting them), but it’s best to give the soil time to rest over the winter. It will also make it easier to plant anew next year.
  6. Protect Delicate Plants: If you live somewhere with heavy snowfall and cold temperatures, you may want to protect some of your more delicate and potted plants against the elements. Insulation can be as simple as mulch or leftover leaves laid over the top, or as complicated as carefully laid burlap over rose bushes.
  7. Close off Foot Traffic: Your lawn is more likely to survive the harsh winter if you keep foot traffic off. It’s very easy to turn a brown lawn into a mud pit if too many people take shortcuts over your grass. Keep sidewalks and walkways clear to avoid too much damage.

 

After your hard work is done, you can sit back and enjoy what’s left of your outdoor season. Winter lawn care tends to transition to winter sidewalk and driveway care, so it won’t be long before you’re pulling out the rotary broom instead of your lawn mower!

How to Design a Beautiful, Yet Mower-Friendly Yard

Tuesday, November 15th, 2016

One of the good things about fall is we get to start planning our lawns and landscapes for next year. Some of us may be thinking about ways to enhance a plain lawn, while others are looking for a way to make it easier to mow around beds, features and plantings. These design tips will make it easier to mow, while giving your yard a more finished, landscaped look.

Keep your lawn looking its best with proper, planning and upkeep.

Well defined borders between your lawn and plantings are a must if you want to mow with ease.

  • Create Borders: Good, clean borders between your lawn and your ornamental plantings are a must when you want to be able to mow with ease. This will allow you to maintain a clear separation between the areas you can drive over with your mower and the areas that will require closer weed care.
  • Create a Center: Use beds full of shrubs and perennials around the outside of the space to frame it. For a formal look, use straight lines. For a less formal look, use gently curving beds (gentle curves are easier to mow than tight curves). This will draw the eye to your plantings, while framing the area and creating contrast to a flat sweep of lush, green lawn.
  • Potted Plants: There’s no reason why your plants and exotic blooms have to be put in the ground in order to add appeal. Large potted plants placed on patios or in out-of-the-way spaces are easy to maintain and add visual appeal. This can work especially well for figs, citrus and other less hardy fruit trees that need to winter indoors.
  • Use Vertical Space: When you design your yard, think about going up instead of going horizontal. By putting in retaining walls, raising your garden beds, and planting creeping plants against a trellis or other feature, you can create a separate space for ornamental plants. This leaves your grass free, open and easy to mow.
  • Plant in groups: To make mowing easier, try grouping plants together. By placing them in close proximity to one another and filling the spaces between them with mulch, rocks, or stepping stones, you can avoid mowing around individual plants. This will help you save time while still allowing you to plant as many visually appealing blooms and shrubs as you wish.
  • Don’t Forget Sprinkler Heads: Sprinkler heads that protrude from the grass are a lawn mower’s worst enemy. If you’re in the design stages of your lawn, try to find ways to set the sprinkler heads away from the areas you want to mow or choose the kind that retract and lie flat after use. This will make it easier for you to pass over your lawn with your mower.

Start planning now to make your yard more beautiful but easier to mow next year.